Friday, June 10, 2011

What a Day!

Last night at 2am I rushed to the ER due to a kidney stone. And this morning at 9am I went surfing. I rode a 6' wave! Well,  it was only 3' the way the Hawaiians count it, BUT STILL! My instructor, from Girls Who Surf, was a PhD student in Marine Biology at the University of Hawaii. He took me to the same break off Ala Wai that I could see from my hotel room's lanai. I didn't have any problem getting up, and once I was up it was pretty easy for me to balance and ride on the wave. It was really fun and I'm looking forward to doing it again. The most amazing thing is the sound of the water. Usually when you're playing in the water you hear the swooshing sound of a wave pass by you: swish swooosh then quiet, then another wave comes with its own swishing sand swooshing. When you surf, you stay with the wave, so the sound is constant! We also saw a monk seal chilling on the beach. Monk seals are endangered and shy, so it was pretty much a miracle that one was there at Ala Mona. I'm taking it as a good omen.

After surfing I was tired from being up half the night, and settled down for a nap. I started feeling the beginnings of pain in that kidney again, so I took a bunch of Motrin and drank a lot of water. Not too much later the stone came out. Too bad I took all that Motrin--I can't have a drink to celebrate until that's worked through my system. Also, I didn't put enough sunblock on, and appear to have crisp-fried the backsides of my legs at my surfing lesson, so I guess the Motrin is also helping with that.

Evenings at The Ilikai begin with a man in red and gold Hawaiian robe blowing a conch shell while tiki torches are lit. Lovely.

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