To be clear, I'm well aware that I'm not "really" in Egypt. I bypassed Cairo entirely, and have gone from airport to hotel to private gated resort, and am about to get on a dive yacht for two weeks. I actually planned it this way. As an unaccompanied woman, I did not want to deal with any middle eastern male-dominated cultural stuff. So far the only working women I've seen were in the Vodaphone shop in Hurghada. No female waiters, housekeepers, or hotel staff anywhere thus far. I'd been warned before I left that even in the tourist resorts Egyptians are frustrating and difficult to deal with. Fortunately EVERYONE so far has been hospitable and pleasant. My strategy of making Egypt easy to deal with by insulating myself from it all has worked. Other tourists have been very surprised that I'm traveling alone; so far I've talked to some Germans and some Dutch. I'm looking forward to getting on the dive yacht tomorrow. My ideal for the middle of nowhere is being on a dive boat with hundreds of thousands of marine friends just a splash away. Divers tend to be a congenial bunch who will talk about diving until the octopuses swim home, so the coming week should be more social.